where art collides philosoperontap

Incredible view across the Bay of Naples from the panoramic windows of our extremely large room  at La Minervetta. Dawn was particularly lovely and even now, an hour or so later, the mists still linger in the silhouetted valleys of the town. A fisherman stands at the back of his small boat a couple of hundred yards offshore and another sits with his rod, dangling his legs over the side of the jetty. It is looking like a hot day in prospect and I regret not bringing my shorts. Our bedroom is a stunner. The owner of this hotel is an interior designer and this hotel really showcases his skills.

A lone cloud at the top of Mount Vesuvius makes it looks as if a gentle volcanic eruption is taking place. A show put on for the tourists no doubt. Clever lot the Italians. A passenger boat sets off in the direction of Capri. The hotel manager suggested we leave that visit until our next trip as much of the Island is closed at this time of year.

Our thinking is to check out Sorrento today and Positano tomorrow. There is a bus that gets you there in 25 mins, if you catch the right one. Otherwise it takes twice as long. No rush I guess.

The green fishing boat with a blue topped white cabin at the front has just returned to the quayside to pick up its net. We saw them unloading the net yesterday but didn’t spot anything that looked like a catch. Maybe they unloaded it elsewhere. One thing that did interest us last night at dinner was the discovery that they catch tuna and swordfish in these waters. I had a mixed seafood grill that included those meats. Fish and chips Sorrento style. THG had salmon in a vodka sauce. There were no greens on offer. You have to get used to the different menus here. Yesterday we went on the hunt for a sandwich but again there was none to be found.

Agonisingly beautiful morning on the terrace at the top of the hotel. Breakfast was amazing. V high quality everything. I rate hotels by a number of KPIs and breakfast represents a high percentage of the points. I haven’t experienced a better hotel breakfast than this.

There are only two negatives. One is that it is three hundred steps down to the marina below. That in itself is not a negative. It’s the fact that it is three hundred steps back up. Last night we forked out for a taxi. The meter said 18.50. I gave him 20. He said it was 25 due to some add on. I didn’t argue. Just remember the 300 steps. The other negative is that whilst my droid can access tinterweb using the hotel wifi my macbook and THG’s iPhone cannot (except I could get on the BBC website for a while but now I can’t!). I have to swing by recepzione and talk to their techie over the phone apaz, which I will do.

The plume above Vesuvius has grown. Nowt we can do about this. The airport is just below and the roads get gridlocked at the best of times. The population of Naples and its surrounding area will at some stage in the future be doing another Pompeii. Up Pompeii.

The Capri ferry has returned. I was going to say empty but I have no idea really. I would have said that just for effect. But I didn’t.

The other thing that not everyone is happy with is the fact that there is no kettle in the room. They like to deliver the tea. This is a cross you just have to bear. It’s called service levels. Service levels do come at a price but that is the same in any game. Want five nines reliability with 15 minute time to fix? In yer dreams.

We are shortly off to discover the delights of Sorrento at a leisurely pace. It must be at least 17 degrees. Gotta take it easy.

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Things remembered or noticed this morning. I was in a bar in Rome and went to the loo. The gents was occupied so I tried the ladies. That too was engaged. I waited and eventually a girl (woman) came out of the gents. The temerity of it!

Amerigo Vespucci set off on his big trip from Sorrento apaz. According to yesterday’s driver. We had a nice Merc to bring us here from Napoli Centrale. This morning I saw a small girl with pink specs get out of her pushchair and ask her mum to take some photos. She adopted some classic model poses before getting back in the buggy.

Bought a couple bots of vinegar and an olive oil from a specialist shop called Salumiere or similar. I asked if they had any of last year’s harvest but was told it wasn’t ready yet. I believed the guy in the shop more than Gemini which said now was a good time to buy. Settled for their best drop as pointed out by the gaffer. Also bought a nice white vinegar. Find it difficult to get much in way of choice in Lincoln. Also the same balsamico the man in the shop used himself.

When it got to paying he asked if I could do cash. Cash is king. He wasn’t offering much of a discount. Couple of bucks. The cheese seller in the market in Rome knocked a fiver off for cash without me even asking. Not many tourists in that market unlike today’s shop which was tourist central. Almost as if they had just got off a cruise.

As we walked down the main drag a few things grabbed my attention. First  a truck picking up cardboard. Every shop had left a pile of cardboard packaging outside. Monday is obviously recycling day. Then a currency shop quoting identical exchange rates for  GB pounds, Scottish pounds and Northern Irish pounds. Parity at last!

Then there was the legal cannabis store.

We walked past an Irish bar advertising that it was showing the Liverpool game tonight so that’s this evening’s entertainment sorted. Won’t want much in the way of eats as we can fill up on the amazing buffet of hors d’oeuvres, or whatever they call them in Itly, in the hotel. Really high quality nosh fair play. 

And then finally, unless I can think of something else, we  passed a statue of John Paul 2, or San Giovanni Paolo II as he is known around ere. Took me a second or three to click that’s who he was. Thought I recognised him. The San bit = lots of politics going on I’m sure. We popped into three or four churches on the way. Really noticeable how much more elaborate Italian/Catholic churches are compared with those back home. Ole Henry VIII has a lot to answer for.

Bags are packed and we are pretty much ready to move on to our next port of call Sorrento. 10:25 Frecciarossa to Napoli where a driver is picking us up to take us to La Minervetta, our bijou home from home for the next three nights. Not worth messing about with local trains from Napoli and then a 1km hike with bags at the other end. One of my fave songs is Pink Martini’s version of Una Notta in Napoli but don’t think we will see much of the city. Certainly not this trip. Rome has been full on but Sorrento should be a little quieter with just the two of us. 

I am quite satisfied with the weekend’s sporting results and we are already looking forward to the imps’ next game which is away at Exeter tomorrow night. Another long trip for the faithful. I wonder if it will be shown in a bar in Sorrento. Lincoln are top of division 3 after all 🙂 If they have chromecast I could share it from my phone. I’m that kind of guy. I’m sure the locals will be interested.

“Oo Lincoln, si that would be bene. We can’t get enough of British third division action in Sorrento but they keep showing AC Milan and Napoli.” Well they should complain if they feel that strongly about it. I would. That’s what social media is for.

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Seamless transition from hotel to train. Good facilities at Roma Termini but all we did was occupy a table in a caff for 15 mins or so before heading down to the platform. The business class coach on the Frecciarossa is v comfortable fair play. Tis said that they bring food and drink offerings as was the way in the Rome of old but I can’t see us wanting any nosh. 

A whistle has just signalled the off. No different to the platform at Lincoln Central I’m sure. Lincoln is not as grand a station as Termini despite its clear association with Rome. Our ruins are not quite as grand. What would Julius Caesar have thought when setting off on his six week or more journey to Albion, or Brittania depending on your timing. Not a good time to be alive although I daresay they made the most of what they had. Grapes are grapes innit.

It is supposed to be blazing sunshine in Sorrento and I am optimistic we might have a clear view of Vesuvius from our hotel room. When I was there last summer you could barely see it due to the smog. It might have been a good spot to watch the eruption as long as I was sure it was safe. Gemini suggests not. Not even Capri would be safe. If yer in Naples you are toast. Burnt toast and don’t even think about marmalade.

Meanwhile we are racing through the Abruzzan countryside having gorged ourselves on an espresso and two biscotti. Cloudy ere mind you.

Great day out yesterday fair play. After a relatively relaxing morning buying cheese, olive oil and vinegar we assembled in the hotel bar before returning to our fave restaurant in Roma La Locanda di Pietro for a leisurely lunch for eight people with Jezzer and Clare joining us towards the end. This was a rugby day out, fuelled by the usual free flow of beer, but the highlight of lunch was Lincoln City beating Cardiff City away to go two points clear at the top. Wowsers.

We taxied to Stadio Olimpico where we saw Scotland beating France and then the highlight of the day, a historic win for the Azzuri against an England side who seem to be in free fall. The row of Italian kids sat in front of us went crazy.

It wasn’t a full ground but I’ve seen it a lot emptier. Italian rugby is on the up, Wales resurgent and we can really look forward to the last weekend of the 6 nations where Wales, if they beat Italy with a bonus point, could get level with England on points at the bottom of the table.

We left the others at the restaurant at around eleven thirty and we’re home just before midnight. The others were still at it, just, at ten to one.

A quieter day in prospect. We are thinking open top bus tour.

Today, because it is the sabbath and our hotel lies in the shadow of the Vatican, I propose to have a shave. The last time we were here we were, together with tens of thousand of others assembled in st peter’s square, blessed by the Pope. Don’t think were going to bother this time even though he is a new guy. That one has already been ticked off the list and I’m not collecting popes.

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Breakfasted and now sat in the lobby contemplating our trip so far. Our hotel is near the Vatican. I think we would opt for somewhere nearer the tourist action although this place is walkable to the hotspots. My feet are a bit sore from walking. No two couples in our party are in the same hotel although some have ended up near to each other purely by coincidence. The Roman traffic is classic. Just like you see in the movies. Sometimes chaotic and yesterday, at a standstill for reasons we could not see.

You sense that Rome lives off tourism. Everything else feels incidental. Advanced booking is essential and a guided tour makes big sense as even those with tickets have long queues to negotiate but the tours have shortcuts.

Not every Roman follows rugby. Some of the taxi drivers we spoke with didn’t even know there was a game on, let alone one with such a historic result. On trips like this I have to listen to a video before posting as the later on in the evening the less coherent I get yet the more likely to post things on the spur of the moment because it felt like a good idea at the time.

We are not in a particular rush this morning though you do have to balance relaxation versus the fact that we have come all this way and we might as well make the most of it.

Well, it’s been an action packed time in Rome so far. Combining a bit of business with pleasure. Walked off me feet Thursday afternoon. Wouldn’t have been so bad were it not for the fact that my best walking shoes/boots were still soaking wet from last weekend’s festival gear shifting. The farm was so wet the water came over the top of the boots. I resorted to my Timberland chukkas but haven’t worn em in years and they therefore weren’t as comfortable as they might be. First world problemos.

So after the ungodly 5am start on Thursday we arrived at Fiumicino fifteen minutes early. Being a citizen of the world, or at least the EU, I was through passport control in what seemed like seconds but it took THG 30 minutes. I elected to wait for her with the bags at a caff conveniently located at the exit to the baggage collection area.

30 min or so taxi ride, might have been a bit longer, and we arrived at our hotel well before noon to the news that they had upgraded us to a suite. Our bed is on the mezzanine level with sitting area and bathroom downstairs. All good except when you want to nip to the loo in the night! Not complaining.

We went for a stroll and a couple of beers that afternoon and settled for a quiet meal at a gaff near the hotel called La Locanda Di St Pietro or similar. Was great fair play..

Then yesterday we met some pals for a guided tour of the Colosseum and the Forum. V impressivo and the fact that we were part of a tour meant a shortcut past the queues on entry. Walked along the route used by Roman Legionaries when coming to Rome on triumphs. V evocative it was.

A long lunch was followed by a nap and then out to watch Ireland v Wales at some gaff found by Jezzer the previous day. Home before midnight which is v late for us. Match day today with the imps on at lunchtime and the mighty Azzuri v the Inglesi this evening. 

Ciao bebes.

Off to the dirty ground of London town this morning. Feels as if I haven’t been there  in a while, not counting the trip to Seville in January.  Meeting in Shoreditch this pm, din dins at dishoom tonight then nipping to Bat erseah tomorrow morning to see a display of Egyptian bling. Then meeting THG at the cross of kings before heading to LHR T5.

Weroff to see the rugby in Rome, plus a bit of business fwiw. I’m the only non England supporter in the party. Ordinarily I’d say the result was not in doubt but I’m quite looking forward to this game. Could go either way. Won’t go so far as to wear an Italy jersey, particularly as I haven’t got one, but should be an enjoyable evening.

The biggest negative is that the flight is at 06:50am. I don’t normally go for such flights but it was the only one offering reward seats. What’s more we are in economy! With hindsight I should have just gone ahead and paid for business class in the first place at a more reasonable time of day. As it is they want eight hundred quid for an economy ticket now. Norrapnin. The flights are all full of hopeful England supporters making the pilgrimage to the holy city.

Because of the early start we are staying at the Sofitel in T5. We quite like this hotel. Afternoon tea in the lounge followed by snacks and drinks and then an early night. The only problem is that because of the early check in we won’t have time for breakfast in the hotel. I’m going to ask them if they can do us a bit of a packup – couple of croissants etc but as a backup have tried to order something from BA for delivery. Sausage sandwich. I dunno if you have ever tried ordering anything from BA for onboard delivery but it is totally useless. They only do it for certain flights and it never seems to be the one I am on. However they don’t tell you which flights. On this occasion I added two sausage baps to the basket and they offered me a meal deal that included the bap, a carton of pringles crisps and a beer. At 06:50. Ok if I was on rugby tour I guess.

I did click on the person icon on the screen thinking it might be a chat bot (not that that would have been much use) but it turned out to be an accessibility thing. Ba seem to be very big on this. Crap on website user interfaces though.

Anyway, got to finish packing n stuff. This trip is going to be all about layers. It’s ten degrees or so warmer in Itly but we are going to be in the UK as well and the evenings might be a little cool. Taking my swimming trunks as well just in case. The hotel near the Vatican has a rooftop hot tub and the one in Sorrento a pool looking out at Vesuvius. I’m somewhat sceptical as to whether we will use that pool and may not even have time for the hot tub in Rome. A bewildering amount of things to see in the Italian capital.

Ciao bambinos.

…

Great dinner in Dishoom, V noisy but I guess it added to the atmosphere. Finished quite early so back in the hotel bar for a beer and to watch the liverpool v wolves game at eight fifteen. Nil nil at half time and now in bed.

Pinch and a punch. St David’s Day. 1st March. 2026. Dave couldn’t possibly have imagined what the world would be like in the year twenty twenty six. Sometimes I find it difficult myself and I am there. Difficult isn’t the word. Hard to believe maybe. Something else he could not have forecast was how many boys would be named after him. I’m a Davies and that would originally have been derived from an ancestor named after St David. Do we think there are many folk around today with that impact? Any?

Yesterday we buried the Beyond The Woods festival. Most of the infrastructure was hired but we did have a lot of site decoration and quirky stuff like bar furniture that we had mostly constructed ourselves that was consigned to the bonfire. We did keep a load of good stuff that might be useful. Scaffold planks for making the compost bin, a bench, trellis. Things like that. There were also a lot of poles or canes that are going to be v useful for growing runner beans etc. Not yer bamboo canes. Solid wood jobs like Monty Don uses. I’ve been thinking about how to source these for yonks and hadn’t realised we already had them. Hey, we have them now.

I really need to thank everyone who had ever been involved with the festival and especially Tom, Joe, Lucy, Adie, Simon and Jo who were a big help these last two days in dismantling it all. We got somewhat wet on the Friday but got lucky on Saturday when the heavy rain made way for some nicer weather just in time for the lighting of the bonfire. We really moved on from the festival, a casualty of the weather and covid, some years ago but Joefest/Beyond The Woods has finally been put to rest. May it rest in peace.

This being St David’s Day we are having a leg of lamb for lunch with leeks and other solidly Weld accompaniments such as roast potatoes, carrots and broccoli. Well the Welsh do eat those vegetables even though I personally am not a big fan of the latter. There is also some Eryri Black Bomber cheese which is the dogs b0!!0c$. I realise the brand is actually Snowdonia not Eryri but I’m sure they must mean to change it. Surely.

I’ve also set the fire. It’s nice to have a fire going every now and again. Won’t light it yet. It’s a bit early. I was up at five thirty. This is what happens when you go to bed at nine o’clock, the result of being physically cream crackered after yesterday’s day of exercise together with a few celebratory sherberts in the Vic early doors. They had a new barrel of Timothy Taylor’s Landlord on but it didn’t taste right and I suspect it was still a little green. Should have left it another day. Moved on to Neck Oil instead.

Gotta go. A leg of lamb to get out of the fridge and a pot of tea to make for THG.

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Somewhat disappointing Sunday Service this morning. Being St David’s Day it came from Cardiff and indeed they made a good start with the choice of hymn: Guide me o thou great redeemer. Unfortunately the quality of the recording was v poor. Dunno if it was down to the acoustics in the church or what but in any case even THG agreed with me and we switched it off. I did try it on the BBC Sounds app but that was just as bad. Ah well, a lost opportunity.

Heavy rain lashing at the window all night. Woke up a couple of times and lay there listening. Then up at six thirty as is usually the case when it’s my turn to make the tea. However today I was dressed and at it by six forty five and out of the house five minutes later taking our Tom to the stayshun. He came up with Joe and Lucy in their car yesterday but had commitments in London today.

Relentless rain yesterday an all. Spend the whole day at the farm shifting stuff which is why the London crowd were up. We’ve been storing miscellaneous bits from the Beyond The Woods festival. Old sofas, signs, lots of stuff from around the festival site. We stopped putting the event on years ago, a combination of cancellation due to a storm that blew through resulting in the cancellation of most outdoor events that weekend including  Boardmasters and then two years on the trot due to covid. After that the team had moved on and had busy jobs with no time to spare to run a festival. Takes many person months to get up and running and we had a core team of maybe fifteen or more volunteers with many more during the festival itself. The heavy rain is set to continue this morning so we will have to see how we get on. We have a load of crappy wood to burn.

On Thursday I discovered the resting place of my 2g grandparents Ben and Mary Davies: Amor Baptist Chapel, Llanfynydd. I’m in correspondence with a distant cousin I’ve not yet met but who I came across on Ancestry and he mentioned the place and that he was planning to visit. I am going with him in May. Then when going through some old bits of research I found a note re the chapel I’d scribbled when I was doing this stuff almost twenty years ago. Totes forgot about it. Next I found the will of his father, Ben Davies that I had also forgotten about. It’s quite nice finding these things as they have the handwriting of your relatives although on occasion this is an X, her mark. I have examples where I’m pretty sure both parents could read and write but their daughter couldn’t. Marriage registers usually. In one case Margaret Evans nee Davies was the daughter of a Baptist minister so not surprising that she could write. She married a farmer and had nine children and again not, perhaps, a surprise that her daughter Mary couldn’t.

The other interesting observation is that in the official documents they were Benjamin Davies but their signatures said Ben Davies. Natural really but nice to feel that touch of “reality” if that is the right word. Humanity perhaps?

One nice thing about working in the rain yesterday was that I stayed perfectly dry. It might not have been particularly nice working in the rain but having the right gear makes a huge difference. My boots had trodden through a lot of mud and water but kept it all out. Ditto my old Lonap raincoat. The Tilley hat keeps the rain off yer specs. It’s the one I wore on the coast to coast walk where the first two days were driving rain.

So Tom is now on his way back to London and I’m sat in the snug. Didn’t seem much point in going back to bed when I could be catching up on my diary. Had no time yesterday and was somewhat fatigued when we got home. Not used to all this physical work. In fact I wouldn’t have been able to do it during the last three years or so. The new hips are pretty miraculous. I couldn’t even remember what it was like to walk pain free and not I notice it all the time. The contrast. Wow.

Today the plan is to shovel sh!t. Horse manure to be specific. THG has identified a source (name of dobbin) and roped me in for some shovelling. I am of course, in my lowly position as the occasional undergardener, happy to help. In preparation for said shovelling it is necessary to nip to Wicks to purchase some bags of a strength suitable for the “job”. This I will this morning do whilst THG is occupied with the Pink Ladies running club, an esteemed body of fitness enthusiasts who get put through their paces every Tuesday.