where art collides philosoperontap

September 10, 2023

the smell of the city

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 9:09 pm

City streets have a certain smell to them when there is a hot day in prospect. This is very much the case in Toulouse as I wandered out this morning for some bread and milk. On the way back I passed a bloke in a beret. Youngish guy. Berets obviously still very much a tradition in France.

At the Rugby World Cup village yesterday someone noted you could buy a rugby beret with flags of all participating nations. Thirty Euros. Norrachance sez I. My recent experience with berets is that they only have a shelf life of around three hours after which they get left in a bar or a taxi.

We had a fairly relaxing morning yesterday sipping coffee on our rooftop terrace before heading out to meet the gang. It was a hot afternoon with the temperature in the mid thirties and the heat did take its toll. 

Sometime just before four in the afternoon we found a place for ‘lunch’. I had a chicken kebab with curry sauce and chips and a bottle of san pellegrino. Ok. Too early to start on the pop though some of our party disagreed with me. Lunch was a reasonable thirty euros per person inc tip. We all had a pud. Lemon meringue pie for moi and un cafe.

By five o’clock we were in a bar called Pub O’Clock which is where we stayed for the rest of the evening. Caught the last quarter of Ireland’s hammering of Romania and watched Australia beat Georgia followed by a quite boring England win against Argentina despite being down to fourteen men for most of the game. The pub was within a staggering distance of our pad so we were home before the others had even thought about getting a taxi.

Today is our last in Toulouse. We have a bit more sightseeing to do and are meeting our friend Natalia and her kids for lunch whilst the others go and watch Japan v Chile. Mighty Wales are playing Fiji this evening following Scotland v Springboks.

In between all that we need to pack for the next leg of the trip. This includes Carcassonne, Avignon, Aix en Provence and Cassis before settling in Nice for a week. We have a system. Large bags to carry most of our clothes and carry-on size bags for one nighters in hotels to avoid having to cart everything in and out. I’ve had to identify height friendly car parks in both Avignon and Aix as those cities have the same problem as here in Toulouse. A minor problem but one we could have done without.

At ten fifteen this morning the cathedral bells began calling the faithful to mass. Actually there are multiple church bells ringing out. Same scene for hundreds of years. THG is recording them, presumably so that on Sundays at home we can replicate the experience. Can’t say I hear the bells in Lincoln ringing. Maybe I’ve got used to them and my brain filters out the sound.

Back at the flat healthily tired. The Toulousain metro system was a revelation and very useful. Quicker to get home than a taxi without the uncertainty of when we would be able to book an uber. 

Dinner consumed, dishwasher on and waiting for mighty Wales v Fiji to appear on French telly. The French coverage hasn’t thus far had the most inspiring commentary. This is partly because I can’t be bothered to attempt to understand it and partly because the tonality of the voice is v boring. The legend of Bill McLaren continues to grow.

September 9, 2023

opening night

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:44 am

Good night watching the opening game with the MoHo crew. We left their campsite at around half time as we didn’t trust the availability of Uber to get us back into town at the end of the game. After a week with only the (splendid) company of THG it felt a bit strange to be back ordering “five large ones” each time there was a round. Comforting actually albeit a pace impossible to sustain. Leaving at half time helped.

This morning I popped out for a couple of artisanal croissants and some strawberry jam. Quite a few folk with tote bags on a similar mission. One guy strolled into a tabac just along from the flat. Everyone else was out for fresh bread. He was after a packet of fags. Almost certainly Gitanes. If they weren’t Gitanes I’d want to know why not 🙂

Having an easy morning of it before heading out to see the sights and the rugby. Ireland are on stage at three thirty and Angleterre at nine pm. Mighty Wales tomorrow evening.

I do have quite a bit of admin to catch up on. We keep getting enquiries for campervan bookings for next season but I haven’t set that up yet. Gonna try and do it this weekend. Won’t take much more than an hour. Don’t want to rush these things. Got to get it right. I also like to check the Ts & Cs and make sure nothing has changed with the insurance deal. Another job – trefbash registrations need to go live. I know I know I will do it honest. That one takes a bit of creativity. Use of brain.

I hear a siren on the city streets below. Police or ambulance, probs. Another story to be told but one which we shall never find out.

At 9am a bell chimes. No wait I counted ten bongs. My laptop is still stuck in British Summer Time. They were fairly flat dull bongs. Not a particularly musical bell

‘We’ have taken the opportunity to get some laundry done here in Toulouse. The flat has all mod cons. The deck, being on the tenth floor, is not without a bit of a breeze and we couldn’t find the clothes pegs so fingers crossed we don’t lose anything over the side 🙂 Should dry quickly especially as the temperatures are expected to hit the mid thirties again today. Great deck though. We have one on each side all to ourselves.

September 8, 2023

parking in Toulouse

Filed under: diary,travel — Trefor Davies @ 8:05 am

So we have arrived in Toulouse. Easy enough from Bordeaux. Apart from the parking at the airbnb. Nightmare. After a couple of laps we found a space in front of the entrance to the apartment. Only a two hour slot. There are lots of underground car parks available but they all had a 1.8m height limit.

My car is 1.967m high, with a possible reduction of 4cm when I press the button to drip the car. We followed a car into one car park to watch their top box being totally trashed. The driver was clearly stressed because it took him a hole to reverse out. Several goes.

Turns out there aren’t any parking spaces in Toulouse for a Land Rover Defender. They all own poxy little motors that fit anywhere. After some time driving around fruitlessly I stopped to ask some gendarmes to no avail. None of them could help.

I called the hilton at the airport who welcomed me with open arms. Twas only 18 minutes away. When I got there turned out they too had a height limit so they let me park out front next to the airport shuttle bus. Result. Moreover it was only 32 Euros for 3 nights. Plus the Uber there and back on Monday. Cheaper than the poxy rabbit holes they have in town.

Anyway to cut a long story short we bought some supplies in the local Casino, had a simple salad for supper and caught a cab out to the campsite to meet our pals. Now we are back in the airbnb watching the end of the opening game of the tourney. France v All Blacks. Currently the home side is willing. Only real problem is the commentary is in French and they do get excited.

The rugby world cup has started. Stay tuned…

PS God are we glad we didn’t come in one of our campervans., We would still be on the way and totally knackered. Whilst being height limited for parking the defender is totes luxurious. When it is 35 degrees C out you want to be nice and cool inside.

The AirBnB is great btw. 10th floor apartment with views over the city.

September 7, 2023

burning hot streets of Bordeaux

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:56 am

We trudged the burning hot streets of Bordeaux. All afternoon. Temperature well into the thirties. Stopped for a late lunch at a pavement caff called The Books and Coffee. They are all pavement caffs around here. Mostly tourists. The Bordelaise know when to stay indoors. It was pleasantly cool inside but I only found that out when I went in to settle the bill.

Mad dogs, Welshmen/Irishmen and all that jazz…

Back at the brand new and very excellent Marty Hotel I am pleased to report a fully functioning air conditioning system. All is quiet in the room as THG and I recover from the walk.

Our rugby world cup travelling companions are either still on the road or have parked up for the night. Pool plunges and cold beers beckon. 

We are not in a hurry. When the heat of the day has receded the time for beer will be upon us soon enough. Part of me says the menu for this evening should be some fine red wine. I’m not totally convinced it goes with the heat but we shall see.

A siesta may be appropriate.

September 6, 2023

Hotel Port Haliguen

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:54 am

Sat on our first floor balcony at Hotel Port Haliguen watching the traders arrive and set up for the weekly market. It is a hive of activity. Some of the early birds seem to be almost set up and ready for the first punters. Others are just arriving. Traders are chatting away.

L’Apero have two umbrellas each with a flag touting OLIVES and SAUCISSONS. A baker carries large baskets of bread from his green van to the trailer. BiHan Quiberon Boulanger, Patissier, Chocolatier. Three traders line up to buy breakfast from the serving girl who hasn’t finished setting up yet and isn’t really ready for them. The first has secured his pan au choc and eats it as he walks off.

It is a shame we have breakfast lined up at the hotel. Could have gone to the market 🙂

The Hotel Port Haliguen is a simple two star edifice looking down over the square. One of its attractions was the ease of parking which of course turned out not to be the case on this one day a week when the market rocks up. Managed to find a spot, the last spot, on the road at the back of the hotel. Couldn’t get as close to the wall as the other cars which I found strange until I realised they were all left hand drive! I had to be able to get out of the car. With hindsight I should either have just crawled over the passenger seat or parked facing the other way. It had been a long day!

September 5, 2023

Last morning in Killybegs

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:53 am

Last morning in Killybegs. We move on today. It is always great to come to Donegal and our cottage, situated as it is slap bang in the middle of town, was a perfect base for festivities.

Yesterday we gathered outside the Tara Hotel and were picked up by Terence’s minibus to take us to The Country Inn, Ballinakillew where cousin Gavin and his lovely wife Caroline were there to meet us.

The Country Inn is a classic Irish country pub. Very friendly. I chatted for a while with the former landlord William Walls who very kindly bought me a pint.

On to Lough Eske Castle where Gavin is Executive Chef. Lunch was v tasty and afterwards I was treated to a particularly special glass of Midleton whiskey. Life is short. Drink special whiskeys 🙂We had the usual team photo on the steps of the Castle.

Finished off in McCaffertys in Donegal. Great pub although it has been extended since we were last there and is full of screens so didn’t feel quite as intimate as it might. I guess there were smaller side rooms. In case you didn’t know it Arsenal thrashed Man U three one. Lots of dismayed Man U fans.

Back in Killybegs at around eight forty five and straight to the Fleet Inn to finish off the night. It must be said I only managed a pint there before hitting the hay. That’s all I have to say about yesterday other than the fact that I didn’t lose my hat. Thanks @Dearbhla 🙂

Pretty much packed thirty minutes ahead of schedule.

On board the Irish Ferries WB Yeats bound for Cherbourg. Feels like the beginning of a big adventure which it is. A long sea journey even though it is only a one nighter. Could be any international destination. Port Said. Macao.

If it was the latter we would be in it for the long haul and would definitely need a port side cabin. Our current gaff is on the starboard.

The cabin is comfortable enough. Doesn’t appear to have tea and coffee making facilities though. Squeezing as much cash as they can out of us. Never mind. A few Euros spent on onboard drinks and snacks will seem like small potatoes by the end of this trip.

We are quite looking forward to a quiet night in the cabin after the full on weekend with the O’Rourke Clan in Killybegs. It is twenty to five in the afternoon and we haven’t touched a drop of Guinness. This was a bit of an issue for us in Ireland. Being on holiday we (I) somehow started in the pub quite early. Times ranged between shortly after noon to two fifteen to three twenty. This meant my stamina for staying the course late into the night was severely dinted. Hey… We are grownups and can go to bed whenever we like innit.

I have a couple of books with me to read on the boat: Francis Harvey Collected Poems and Band of Brothers (again). Not often I get time to read without distractions. I could sign up for the wifi though it would be nice to know whether it had decent performance before doing so. It’s 15 Euros for 4 hours! They do offer 20 mins free so might try it out although it feels if I did I would be wasting the opportunity to have some time off away from connectivity.

Meanwhile we’ve been for a drink and a biscuit, checked out the dining options and returned to the room to watch TV. Bit of Rick Stein on Dave. Seen this one before obvs. It must be said that based on our two hours at sea so far I don’t think I could manage a cruise. OK I know that during the cruising day you are mostly on a coach trip in different destinations but there will be some days at sea where all we have to do is participate in the deck quoits tournament. I’m sure I’ve mentioned this before so will stop now. Some of you lot are avid cruise fans.

Shortly after six thirty we went down for dinner. Both had childs portions which were perfectly adequate. Chicken curry with rice (THG) and sausage beans and chips (moi). When I sussed out the options earlier I was a bit worried that the chips looked like they’d been in the serving bowl thingy for a while with the risk of coming out cold. However at six thirty it was rush hour and the chips were fresh. V important 🙂

The sea is dead calm and we did wonder how fast the boat was going. Knots yanow. At that time the captain wandered by and had I not been eating I would have asked him. Could work it out. Twenty one hours at sea but I have no idea of the distance, without tinternet.

Most people in the bar and restaurant area are tucking into beers or bottles of red wine. I’m quite content with not doing this. Back in the room oscillating between reading and updating this diary entry as I think of new things to say.

The idea of being offline for a lengthy period of time is a strange one to get the brain around. We are so used to checking things from time to time (often). Facebook, whatsapp, the weather. You name it. An extended trip offline would need careful planning. Bills need paying etc. How on earth did people do it? 

On the bus to The Country Inn yesterday I booked a hotel room in London for October. Click click tap tap done. Simples. I recall in my early days in product mangements at Marconi Electronic Devices one of the departmental secretaries (Brenda) ringing a London hotel to get a price and book me a room. Either pre www or very early days. Gosh. 

Strand Palace Hotel I remember. During the first gulf war. She got a good price. Thirty quid maybe. Person in front of me at the checkout was paying three times as much. Incredible, especially when you consider today’s London hotel prices.

Found University Challenge on the box. It’s a prog we watch. Together. A little piece of home on the high seas. Now watching Sky News. It isn’t a programme we normally watch. Brings home the reality that we don’t watch much terrestrial telly. It’s all streamed.

Dark out there. No visible lights. No shipping in sight. Empty. 

Slept well. Up now at five forty to see what I could see. Nothing. Nowt. One light in the far distance which must be another ship. I’ve stopped calling them boats.

A ship’s officer, one striper, and a man in a tee shirt walk past me purposefully through the deserted lounge with no sideways glance at just another passenger. Do they not realise it’s mee they are ignoring? No they don’t.

It would appear that all passengers on this ferry have a cabin. If they don’t they are hidden away somewhere. Probably gone off in search of a bench seat on which to stretch out. Away from the glare and the hubbub, of which there is none.

The tables and chairs in this lounge are tidily laid out in an orderly manner. Someone went around straightening them all after the punters had gone to bed. Shipshape. A tidy ship is a well run ship. 

Over the course of ten minutes several individuals have appeared. Wandering. One is sat patiently outside the entrance to Boylan’s Brasserie. Waiting for the first coffee of the day no doubt. All of them are fully dressed. I am fully in my pyjamas.

I had been expecting to see the dawn at this time but I guess we are much further south than Lincoln with the shorter days. The brightly lit lounge might also obscure any lightening of the sky outside.

Man has appeared and is now sat down reading his book. At least I assume it is his book. He might have borrowed it. Unlikely to be from a library though I’d have thought. Wonder what it is. I smile at the idea of going up to him and asking.

First woman of the day has appeared, so to speak. Wearing a green coat. She is looking around to see what action there is. I too am earing a coat. My fleece. This is so that I have a pocket in which to put my wallet and phone, in case I find somewhere to purchayse a cup of tea. Not tried the other end of the deck yet.

The man has packed away his book, taken a swig from his water bottle and slung his blue back over his shoulder. I thought he was going to move on but all he has done is turned around in his seat to survey the rest of the lounge. Nowhere to move on to really. No, wait, he has moved. 

It is definitely getting lighter out there. I’m off out on deck. I was the only one there earlier but it was dark.

Had a great little chat with the Sergeant at Arms who was having a quiet smoke. Polish guy. The ship averages 20 knots. All your questions answered. 24 knots if it is a following wind.

The captain and first mate work two weeks on two weeks off. The rest of the officers have a four week rotation and the Seargeant at Arms himself does six weeks on, three weeks off. The can’t afford to take any more time off. Company flies him home but flights are currently harder to come by due to the rugby world cup.

The sea is very calm now but during July and August it has been quite rough due to the weather system causing the extreme heat down south. Apaz they are expecting the ‘weather’ to return in a week or so. We will be solidly on terra firma.

His dad was from the mountainous region near the border with the Czech Republic. I wonder if I remembered that right.He also mentioned Belarus. I’ll have to check when I get connectivity. Not hugely familiar with that part of the world.

I told him of the RIPE dinner in Krakow that involved a different bottle of vodka with each of seven courses. In reply he said that at Polish weddings there was much singing and consumption of vodka. Different groups of men (married, single etc) would stand up and sing a song and then down a shot. He had recently attended a wedding between a  Polish girl and a Brit. The Brits all had serious vodka inspired hangovers the next day 🙂

I mentioned the lack of sightings of other ships. Apparently they mostly see fishing fleets en route, concentrated on where the fish were at any particular moment in time. As they get sloser to the channel it also gets busier as you might expect.

Quite a productive time on deck. He told me that the cafe was open all night so I am now in there letting a hot cup of tea cool a little to a drinkable temperature. In ten minutes or so I’ll take one down to THG. Cafe floor ten, bedroom floor nine.

Looking out of the windows I keep expecting to see dolphins swiming playfully alongside. Where are they all, c’mon. Visibility not great at this time on the morning. Mists still need buring off. 

Tis going to be a hot one I believe. We are headed south to the Quiberon Peninsula. Port Haliguen. First stopping point on the journey to Toulouse. Doing it in shortish hops. Didn’t see the point in thrashing ourselves.

Quite a few people around at six forty six. Sitting here on my own feels as if I am a solo traveller. People watching.

September 3, 2023

Another grey start to the day in Killybegs

Filed under: diary,travel — Trefor Davies @ 10:51 am

Another grey start to the day in Killybegs. After breakfast yesterday I took a stroll around the harbour to check out the fishing fleet. Many of the boats were registered in Sligo. Impressive bits of kit.

At the end of the quay there were three guys fishing with rods. Big contrast between the rods and the industrial scale fishing out of the boats. Nothing was being caught and later I bumped into one of the fishermen walking through the village. He was relocating to another spot in the hope of better luck.

All is quiet in the cottage. Was a big day yesterday with a contingent of us heading out on a boat trip to Slieve League. Great afternoon out fair play. On return to the harbour the party dispersed with Toby George and I heading to the Harbour Bar for some refreshment. We hadn’t quite realised it was only around three thirty pm. We were meeting the others in the Bay View Hotel at around nine!

Gradually the Davies and Cookson parties converged on the bar and a pre order for fish and chips from the Seafood Shack was compiled. Twelve meals for picking up at seven twenty. The point here I guess is that there were four hours of Guinness consumption before dinner with the prospect of a further spell afterwards in the Bay View. The energy levels after eating were understandably low but we made it out, at least to show our faces.

Notable events during the day included Joe being hustled at pool at the Harbour Bar. Someone played him in the best of three frames and Joe won easily in the first. After that a bet of twenty euros was laid and the other guy proceeded to thrash his unsuspecting victim. Classic hustle. The Harbour Bar was Uncle Patsy’s local apaz.

In the Bay View a band was banging out Irish folk music and they attracted a number of couples to the dance floors for what I can only describe as old time dancing. There is a video somewhere of THG dancing with one of the locals 🙂

The consequence of yesterday’s merriment is a slow start for everyone this morning. Fair enough. We are on holiday. THG however has gone out running. The woman is superhuman. After thirty five years of marriage she never ceases to impress. Problem is it puts the rest of us, well me, to shame. Ah well.

Today is our last in Killybegs for this trip and tomorrow I will point the car towards Dublin and the ferry to France. Plenty happening between now and then though so stay tuned.

Church bells calling the faithful to mass. First session of the day, presumably.

September 2, 2023

Food order seafood shack killybegs

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:49 am

Food order seafood shack killybegs
Tref Haddock chips and tartar sauce
Geo Haddock chips and tartar sauce
Hannah Haddock chips
Anne seafood box
Large chips
Tom large chips
Joe Haddock and chips
Lucy seafood box
John calamari chips and garlic Mayo
Ann cod goujons chips and Coleslaw
Tobe Haddock chips and coleslaw
Lils scampi and chips
Megs Haddock chips tartar sauce

Foggy start

Filed under: early one morning,travel — Trefor Davies @ 9:15 am

Looking out of the cottage first floor window at the line of fishing boats tied up next to each other in Killybegs harbour. Ireland’s premier fishing port and we are smack bang in the middle of it. 

They are wonderful looking boats. The nearest is Pacelli D383. Most people here are associated with the fishing industry one way or another. Times are not great since they were forced to give up some quota post brexshit. UK waters. Mackerel don’t recognise territoriality 🙂

Bright lights are still on around the quayside as it is very foggy, a fact that was drawn to my attention by the foghorn blasting out periodically. Presumably from a nearby lighthouse.

John has gone off surfing with Toby and Lils. 7am start. They are welcome to it. A hardy bunch. John does not have a wetsuit which he may find out to be an issue. We will know soon enough.

Everyone knows everyone here. Was in the Harbour Inn early doors yesterday chatting to an O’Rourke from Leitrim. Mam was an O’Rourke from Leitrim. Spent the night with the extended family: Fidelma, Dearbhla, Rory, Lachlan, Cathy, Claire  et al. Tara Hotel and The Fleet.

Today’s entertainment is a boat trip to the cliffs of Slieve League. Hoping the fog will have lifted. The forecast is good and the fog should burn off. Light winds also which is obvs desirable when going on a long sea journey. 3 hours apaz. Right now the fog does seem to be getting heavier though!

There are signs of life in the cottage. Noises from a downstairs bathroom. I am in the kitchen. A good orientation and hence the view.

I have breakfast options this morning. Sausage sandwich or bacon sandwich. The sausages are Irish recipe and I am tempted. The bacon is just the rubbish you get in supermarkets. Ditto the sausages really but I do have a soft spot for ‘Irish recipe’ as mam used to sometimes serve them up when we were kids. 

Two sandwiches are an option but I do need to pace myself. This trip is a marathon not a sprint. I’l mull it over. No rush. It is a Saturday morning in Killybegs and most non surfers are still snuggled up in bed.

I can see a scenario where a stroll around the corner to buy a paper might be in order. Fishing Times or similar. If they sell it anywhere it will be in Killybegs.

We are joining the boat at one pm this afternoon from a spot in front of the Ahoy Cafe. A goodly emporium if you are looking for bodily sustenance before a long voyage. Or anytime you are hungry I suppose. Had breakfast there with Rory a couple of trips back.

Then just along from there is the ship’s chandlers. A truly wonderful aladdin’s cave selling every kind of cleat, block and tackle and rope going. I love that kind of stuff and have to restrain myself from buying any. Don’t really need it although it would of course look great in the shed. If there was any room which there isn’t. I guess a block and tackle would be perfectly positioned hanging outside under the overhang at the front of the shed. Hmm. I still regret not buying the spitfire squadron scramble bell from Hemswell Antique Centre a few years back. It was a bit on the big side and I already have a bell, albeit a ship’s bell. Keep meaning to go back and see if they still have it.

THG is now up and a second cup of tea has appeared. For the record I made the first, for both of us. I just opted to drink mine in the kitchen where, as you know, I was able to look out over the harbour, were it not blanketed in fog.

September 1, 2023

a state of ecstasy

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 9:16 am

Long old drive today. Two hundred and ten miles or so. Boring motorway most of the way. Arrived at the Gazelle and have a room with a wonderful view. Menai Straits and Bangor Pier. To the right in the distance is the Menai Suspension Bridge. To the left Beaumaris.

Quite a self contained spot here. Once you’ve arrived you have the pub, the view and nothing else. It is fine. We finished dinner quite early and are now listening to Sheffield United versus the Red Imps on the wireless. Crap connectivity.

It must be said I am sat outside the Gazelle in a state of ecstasy. The Menai Straits  have the gentlest of ripples on an otherwise flat surface. Birdsong surrounds me. Over the water Bangor Pier stands serene, still, with small flocks and individual sea birds flying across its reflection.

Bangor itself is hidden behind the hill, on top of which is the old university building. Green and red triangles mark the route to the ancient slipway in front of the hotel and there is a hollow red diamond near the landside end.

Two different coloured bands of seaweed line the pebbled shore, the lighter nearer the water. To the right, in the distance, stands Telford’s famous suspension bridge. Still in operation today we drove across it en route to our destination for the night. A row of white painted cottages lines the shore opposite.

This is a perfect place to spend time before breakfast. I had to open the front door and let myself out. As I write I have just spotted movement on the pier and zooming in with my camera I can see a light in the cafe with someone inside busying themselves with preparations for the day.

When in this part of the world we normally stay in the Black Boy Inn in Caernarfon but as we are catching the ferry to Dublin today we thought it made more sense to stop at the Gazelle which represents a shorter drive to the port. Wow what a result.

The pub itself was full of families having dinner but the restaurant section was pleasant with great views out over the water. We had a couple of drinks, ate our food and whilst the sun began to set retired upstairs to listen to the Imps beat Sheffield United on penalties in the Carabao Cup.

All in all a great start to our trip.

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