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September 21, 2023

Great day out at the rugby

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 7:05 am

Great day out at the rugby. Met Guy and his pals at noon as arranged. Game started at five forty five so a bit of a liquid warm up seemed appropriate. Amazingly, apart from an initial difficulty finding the tram, everything ran like clockwork.

At the stadium the queues were fairly minimal helped, probs, by our early arrival and the service at the bar seemed to have improved. This time they had separate people pouring the beers and serving the punters.

The remainder of our touring party arrived just before the start having come by taxi. An element of ‘tour fatigue’ is beginning to show. We will all benefit from the week at the Manoir that starts on Saturday.

Apparently there was heavy rain and thunder overnight. I heard none of it. The deep sleep of the just 🙂. This morning the rain had morphed to a very gentle drizzle which was most refreshing on my short stroll to the snack bar to pick up the bread. Deux croissants et une baguette merci. Oh et un cafe, longue. Pierre does a good coffee fair play. I assume that is his name. 

D’aujourd hui we will be recovering from yesterday, sorting out the chalet and packing for the next leg of our trip. A walk to the (pebble) beach is in prospect and maybe, dare I say it, even a paddle in the Med. After all we’ve come all this way…

We did swim in the med at Cassis. Feels like a long time ago now but it was only last Thursday. One week. It’s going to rain off and on all day today but we may well swing by the pool. It has a covered area that I have been using to stay out of the sun but today it can keep the rain off. Doesn’t matter if it is raining once in the pool.

I remember a family holiday to Brittany perhaps fifteen years ago. It rained twelve days out of fourteen. One day looked to be a bit brighter so I bought a load of snorkelling gear and we hit the beach. The boys all went snorkelling and the girls sat on the beach. 

After half an hour or so I looked up. It had started to rain and the beach was deserted except for Anne and Hannah huddled under an umbrella waiting patiently for us. We hadn’t noticed the rain. I can still picture the scene.

Some of the others in our group have started wending their way in the general direction of Montaigu de Quercy. It is around 650km from Nice so a fair old distance. Our plan is to drive around two thirds of the way tomorrow. We’ve booked into a nice gaff for the night. 

To a large extent we are retracing the steps coming here from Toulouse for which we took a relaxing 5 days. Some are visiting the places we stopped at. Avignon for one. Makes a lorra sense to me. I expect that someday they will get around to finishing that bridge at Avignon. Must have run out of budget. Or the builder went bust, or similar.

We did toy with the idea of leaving Nice today but figured we had already seen a lot of the places en route and that some downtime would do us good.

Right, breakfast beckons. Croissant anyone?

Rain has started again. The heavy rain which can be quite pleasant when observed from the covered deck outside the chalet. A river of water is running down the road. A plane flies by on its descent into Nice airport, nobbut six clicks away.

Very much a mooching morning 🙂Popped in to reception to ask if we could check out a little later tomorrow as I have a meeting at 9.30am whereas they want us out by nine. Hadn’t quite factored that into my planning. The receptionist needs to discuss with ‘the manager’ so I have to  pop back after lunch.

After six days at this site we’ve just spotted that the birds making the racket outside our chalet are green parakeets. Gosh.

As the sun creeps inevitably over the yardarm at La Vieille Ferme Camping it has started to rain. Again. It has not yet resulted in the river flowing fast by the deck of chalet C1A but it may yet do so.

I have, as a result, been discouraged from a visit to the bar and am instead helping to empty the fridge by consuming the gin and tonic resident within. Formerly resident.

The river has started as I write. Doesn’t take long here in the Tropic of Provence. The parakeets that frequent the trees around the chalet have stopped squawking. Presumably keeping their heads down.

The defender sits squarely on the drive in front of the chalet. Feels totally at home in the rain.

Two people walk separately past the chalet. A young woman strides confidently up the hill. A man, probs about my age, maybs a little less, walked a more tentatively with what looked like a table tennis bat. There is a ping pong table uo there. They both just scampered back down. Rain must have started again although I didn’t really notice that it had stopped.

On the main road I hear a siren. Feels as if we are cocooned from it all here in the campsite. Live goes on. Births, deaths. Here the main decision is when to eat dinner. I am somewhat governed by THG who has a very high metabolic rate due to her exercise regime. THG is an amazingly fit woman. I am proud to be married to her.

It’s been a wonderful week in the south of France. We would come again at this time of year but probably opt for a villa. The idea of staying in a campsite was so that we could be with our motorhoming pals. Unfortunately the crazy rush to book accommodation for the Rugby World Cup resulted in us having to stay in separate sites. The ones we identified as target sites booked up very quickly.

Funnily enough we haven’t really seen that many rugby tourists here. Maybe this is just a popular site full stop.

September 20, 2023

rugby day ahead

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 8:23 am

  

Another rugby day ahead after a day doing the tourist thing in Nice yesterday. We’ve done Nice now and the spare day tomorrow which was being held back in case there was more we wanted to see can now be used for relaxation, a bit of swimming and tidying up in anticipation of a long day’s travel on Friday.

The campsite wants us out by 9am on the last day with is a bit of a challenge knowing what time we’ve been getting up so pretty much all tidying and packing needs to be done the day before. Slightly annoying that I have a conference call at 9.30 am. In my mind I’d have had that call before heading off. Some negotiation may be necessary.

We will be glad to leave the campsite and its tiny chalet bedroom with low bed and not much space to maneuvre. La Vieille Ferme is a nice enough site. It just ain’t particularly luxurious but we don’t expect that. It’s served a purpose.

So the plan for today is to meet @Guy Osborne at Van Diemen’s Australian pub at noonish and head to the ground around three. The others in the group look like meeting us at the ground. Our last bus back from the airport (via tram) is at nine forty five pm which should give us enough time to get there from the ground. Game starts ast five forty five.

This has been such a full on trip it was easy for us to decide to stay on until Friday even though our last timetabled event, the Italy v Uruguay game, is tonight. The next week is going to be spent in extreme levels of comfort at a manoir deep in the heart of the French countryside. The touring party will I think appreciate the downtime.

September 18, 2023

il pleut

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 8:19 am

Il pleut overnight ici. Could hear it on the roof of our chalet. Rain is forecast for most of today. We are having a pottering around morning in which a visit to Intermarche is planned and I will be doing some (a limited amount) of work.

For this afternoon a tourist trip to Nice is planned. A walk around Vieille Nice etc. Anything to squeeze the max value out of my Lignes d’Azur 7 day pass for which I paid twenty Euros but then found it was no use on the bus and train services serving our campsite.

September 17, 2023

sunny side of the street

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 8:18 am

I get why people like to walk on the sunny side of the street. I, however, am very much a walk in the shade. Person. I do not have blues on parade though. My outlook is sunny. It is simply that I fear the sun.

When I sit outside a bar, in a harbour on the cote d’Azur maybe I like to sit in the shade. I like my beer tall, cold and refreshing and the service to be quick. Better to order the next before finishing the one in front of you.

I like the conversation to be convivial with a thread of wit but don’t mind occasionally sitting alone enjoying my own company.

September 15, 2023

Cassis dawn

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:49 am

Ten past seven. Cassis dawn. A red glow on the Mediterranean horizon. Worker hurries into the hotel below me. My breakfast needs preparing. Sounds of shifting beer barrels. Gentle breeze rustles the surface of the water in the harbour, shimmering in the early morning light. Two white vans and two cars drive lights on along the quay in front of Bar Mistral.

Comfortable enough drive from Cassis to Nice despite the Bip&Go not working at one of the peages and a big accident holding everyone up for a while as three lanes merged into one. Could have been worse. Sat nav lost the plot a bit around some complicated roundabouts near our destination but we are glad now to have abandoned the car for a while, save the occasional supermarche run.

All is quiet in the chalet after a very pleasant light lunch in which I consumed some duck liver pate with a tomato and bread. We shall shortly make our way to the pool which is nobbut 60m away.

Tonight’s plan is a quiet night in. There may be rugby on the TV in the snack bar. I’m assuming there is a TV though not seen one 🙂

There is abundant public transport here. In an ideal world we wouldn’t need to use it to go to Nice as a taxi would seem to be far quicker and easier, assuming we are able to find one. We are less than twenty minutes by car from the Allianz stadium but by public transport it is more like an hour. Coming back the likelihood of finding a cab seems pretty remote. Thirty thousand other rugby fans will be looking for the same thing.

We are in our chalet watching the rugby with the BBC radio commentary. The radio is almost a minute behind but it is better to have it that way than the inane French commentary. They get excited at the slightest thing and are mostly boring. Ok I realise this is not very politically correct but it is what it is. 

Our touring party are currently somewhat dispersed. One lot are in an AirBnB on the Promenade des Anglais. Three are in their own campsite on the other side of Nice. We assume this to be the case. Radio silence is being observed. There were no more MoHo slots in this, our preferred choice site. Went in a flash. Ah well.

Tomorrow morning we have bacon. It is French bacon. Almost certainly rubbish but we have to give it a go. I realise that the enlightened amongst you will be saying that I should not pass judgement before trying the bacon but I speak with great experience. Even in the UK there is a lot of crap bacon. Almost any bacon sourced from a supermarket, for example.

Having now settled into our chalet it must be observed that several items appear to be missing after our two weeks of itinerant existence. Firstly my copy of the Band of Brothers book. Could have sworn it put it in my duffel bag but no that would appear not to be the case.

Secondly there were around six bottles of Kronenbourg 1664 somewhere to be had. Posh ones. They must be in the same bag as the book. Bit annoying, especially if I’ve left them behind somewhere. They are all replaceable. This is not a life or death sitch. Annoying all the same.

I have three bottles of particularly fine eau de vie in the boot. Calvados, armagnac and cognac. I am planning a taste test next week when we all converge on the Manoir. That’s after Nice. Eight days hence. The input from the guy in the shop who sold me it is that the bottles need to be kept in the fridge. None of this room temperature stuff. Some of them are at cask strength. The cognac is a blend with 70% dating back to 1990 and some as far back as 1926. Rare grapes. We will enjoy it I’m sure.

Tomorrow we are off to see Wales v Portugal. First a lunch is planned with our old friends @David Hopinks and @Cecile Hopkins. V excited to see them. The game is not until five forty five so a leisurely lunch in prospect followed by a few beers and rugby. More anon…

September 12, 2023

Avignon

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 12:33 pm

Disabled guy with no right hand sat alone in his motorised wheelchair on Place L’Horloge watching the world go by. Wonder what his story is. The restaurants around the square were all lit up. Tourists out on the town. Probs didn’t notice or see him

We are back in the room/terrace. Half a bottle of Cotes du Rhone yet to be consumed. You will be pleased to know that the insect bite soothing gel purchased in the pharmacy seems to have worked. That was one of those emergency situations where I might have scratched meself to death trying to relieve the itch.

We are enjoying Avignon. The deeper we get into this trip the less we feel we need to delve into the local sights to any significant degree. Today we did the Palais des Papes from the outside. Sfine. I’ve seen a lot of mediaeval buildings and recently watched a French documentary on this particular place.

For tomorrow night (Aix) we are going to do our restaurant research in advance. The one we liked the look of today had no availability. Obvs really. The good gaffs get booked up. Thing is I don’t want to have the whole trip planned in micro-detail. Although when there are ten or twelve of you it doesn’t do any harm.

Most people out and about are tourists. A few locals earlier. Mediterranean complexions a lot of them. We aren’t really that far from the coast. We were back in our room by about eight thirty. 

We have two more hotel nights before the campsite in Nice where we will spend a week. Get some laundry done 🙂Weather still v warm.

Most people we saw this afternoon were sitting down somewhere. Too hot to walk around. Nowt wrong with that. We sat for forty five minutes on the road train ‘doing Avignon’. After a while I stopped listening to the commentary – English on channel 2. Just more of the same. At least we saw the pont.

Seen it before. Hitch hiked to Avignon in nineteen eighty two. Caught the train home.

Aix ain’t so far from here so en route we have decided to do Arles and the Camargue. Bit of a result really. In a bit…

Carcassonne

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 9:31 am

It is Tuesday. I know because I looked it up. We left Carcassonne behind.

Carcassonne was a great experience. Great hotel, highly convenient location with onsite parking and no height restriction 🙂I’ll be leaving a very good review. Great breakfast and great room. Note frequent use of the word ‘great’. This is specifically done for the American market. I could have thrown in the occasional ‘awesome’ but there are limits. One high point of the hotel was meeting Rhodri and Rhian Morgan in the bar. Parents of Jac. Say no more.

The restaurant ‘Ramparts’ had a good atmosphere but the food was v puer. I don’t leave bad reviews but I’m telling you lot anyway.

We headed into the relatively newer bit of Carcassonne to a kitchen shop called La Ferme. Hannah Davies pointed us there. Top class gaff. A number of items were purchased including two very fine bottles of Armagnac and Cognac. The advice is to keep these in the fridge. They are being saved for the fourth week of the trip when we all get together in a manoir near Montaigu de Quercy.

So now we are in Avignon at Hotel L’Horloge which is slap bang in the centre and a short stroll from Palais des Papes and le pont. A little downtime is being taken outside on our rooftop patio. You can get used to rooftop patios.

The one revelation on this trip is the paucity of decent parking in towns in France. By this I mean parking for a car of height 1.967m or 1.927m with the height lowered. Had I been aware of this before the trip I would have planned our itinerary differently. However we are where we are. It takes too long to redo with new hotels plus it would be more expensive st this late stage of the game.

It’s ok. After the Toulouse experience we have reverted to (free) airport parking in Avignon. This is actually quite good. Not too far out of town and sitting in the taxi on the way in made me glad I wasn’t driving. Very very glad. 

Thassitfornow. Need to pop out to take a few hundred more pics.

September 11, 2023

movin on

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 9:02 am

Toulouse was great. Now we move on to Carcassonne. It will be interesting to compare activity levels. How many rugby followers will be in town. No games for a few days.

We move on somewhat exhausted at the full on nature of the weekend. Unlikely to be a totally relaxing week with a different hotel and town every night. Our objective is to arrive in Nice for Friday where we will be staying put for a week.

Afore we go I have to nip out for the usual bread run and I am currently say outside on the deck being able now to identify some of the visible sights, having been to see them. Notable are Couvent des Jacobins and the Basilica. The latter is a classic mediaeval cathedral the building of which was begun in 1080AD (almost went for CE there to be playful) on the site of a fifth century church. The first bishop of Toulouse, Saturnin, was martyred in 250AD so there is considerable history associated with the place.

Our biggest unknown for today is how quickly we can bag an Uber as you may recall the car is parked at the airport Hilton. See how it goes.

September 10, 2023

the smell of the city

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 9:09 pm

City streets have a certain smell to them when there is a hot day in prospect. This is very much the case in Toulouse as I wandered out this morning for some bread and milk. On the way back I passed a bloke in a beret. Youngish guy. Berets obviously still very much a tradition in France.

At the Rugby World Cup village yesterday someone noted you could buy a rugby beret with flags of all participating nations. Thirty Euros. Norrachance sez I. My recent experience with berets is that they only have a shelf life of around three hours after which they get left in a bar or a taxi.

We had a fairly relaxing morning yesterday sipping coffee on our rooftop terrace before heading out to meet the gang. It was a hot afternoon with the temperature in the mid thirties and the heat did take its toll. 

Sometime just before four in the afternoon we found a place for ‘lunch’. I had a chicken kebab with curry sauce and chips and a bottle of san pellegrino. Ok. Too early to start on the pop though some of our party disagreed with me. Lunch was a reasonable thirty euros per person inc tip. We all had a pud. Lemon meringue pie for moi and un cafe.

By five o’clock we were in a bar called Pub O’Clock which is where we stayed for the rest of the evening. Caught the last quarter of Ireland’s hammering of Romania and watched Australia beat Georgia followed by a quite boring England win against Argentina despite being down to fourteen men for most of the game. The pub was within a staggering distance of our pad so we were home before the others had even thought about getting a taxi.

Today is our last in Toulouse. We have a bit more sightseeing to do and are meeting our friend Natalia and her kids for lunch whilst the others go and watch Japan v Chile. Mighty Wales are playing Fiji this evening following Scotland v Springboks.

In between all that we need to pack for the next leg of the trip. This includes Carcassonne, Avignon, Aix en Provence and Cassis before settling in Nice for a week. We have a system. Large bags to carry most of our clothes and carry-on size bags for one nighters in hotels to avoid having to cart everything in and out. I’ve had to identify height friendly car parks in both Avignon and Aix as those cities have the same problem as here in Toulouse. A minor problem but one we could have done without.

At ten fifteen this morning the cathedral bells began calling the faithful to mass. Actually there are multiple church bells ringing out. Same scene for hundreds of years. THG is recording them, presumably so that on Sundays at home we can replicate the experience. Can’t say I hear the bells in Lincoln ringing. Maybe I’ve got used to them and my brain filters out the sound.

Back at the flat healthily tired. The Toulousain metro system was a revelation and very useful. Quicker to get home than a taxi without the uncertainty of when we would be able to book an uber. 

Dinner consumed, dishwasher on and waiting for mighty Wales v Fiji to appear on French telly. The French coverage hasn’t thus far had the most inspiring commentary. This is partly because I can’t be bothered to attempt to understand it and partly because the tonality of the voice is v boring. The legend of Bill McLaren continues to grow.

September 9, 2023

opening night

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:44 am

Good night watching the opening game with the MoHo crew. We left their campsite at around half time as we didn’t trust the availability of Uber to get us back into town at the end of the game. After a week with only the (splendid) company of THG it felt a bit strange to be back ordering “five large ones” each time there was a round. Comforting actually albeit a pace impossible to sustain. Leaving at half time helped.

This morning I popped out for a couple of artisanal croissants and some strawberry jam. Quite a few folk with tote bags on a similar mission. One guy strolled into a tabac just along from the flat. Everyone else was out for fresh bread. He was after a packet of fags. Almost certainly Gitanes. If they weren’t Gitanes I’d want to know why not 🙂

Having an easy morning of it before heading out to see the sights and the rugby. Ireland are on stage at three thirty and Angleterre at nine pm. Mighty Wales tomorrow evening.

I do have quite a bit of admin to catch up on. We keep getting enquiries for campervan bookings for next season but I haven’t set that up yet. Gonna try and do it this weekend. Won’t take much more than an hour. Don’t want to rush these things. Got to get it right. I also like to check the Ts & Cs and make sure nothing has changed with the insurance deal. Another job – trefbash registrations need to go live. I know I know I will do it honest. That one takes a bit of creativity. Use of brain.

I hear a siren on the city streets below. Police or ambulance, probs. Another story to be told but one which we shall never find out.

At 9am a bell chimes. No wait I counted ten bongs. My laptop is still stuck in British Summer Time. They were fairly flat dull bongs. Not a particularly musical bell

‘We’ have taken the opportunity to get some laundry done here in Toulouse. The flat has all mod cons. The deck, being on the tenth floor, is not without a bit of a breeze and we couldn’t find the clothes pegs so fingers crossed we don’t lose anything over the side 🙂 Should dry quickly especially as the temperatures are expected to hit the mid thirties again today. Great deck though. We have one on each side all to ourselves.

September 8, 2023

parking in Toulouse

Filed under: diary,travel — Trefor Davies @ 8:05 am

So we have arrived in Toulouse. Easy enough from Bordeaux. Apart from the parking at the airbnb. Nightmare. After a couple of laps we found a space in front of the entrance to the apartment. Only a two hour slot. There are lots of underground car parks available but they all had a 1.8m height limit.

My car is 1.967m high, with a possible reduction of 4cm when I press the button to drip the car. We followed a car into one car park to watch their top box being totally trashed. The driver was clearly stressed because it took him a hole to reverse out. Several goes.

Turns out there aren’t any parking spaces in Toulouse for a Land Rover Defender. They all own poxy little motors that fit anywhere. After some time driving around fruitlessly I stopped to ask some gendarmes to no avail. None of them could help.

I called the hilton at the airport who welcomed me with open arms. Twas only 18 minutes away. When I got there turned out they too had a height limit so they let me park out front next to the airport shuttle bus. Result. Moreover it was only 32 Euros for 3 nights. Plus the Uber there and back on Monday. Cheaper than the poxy rabbit holes they have in town.

Anyway to cut a long story short we bought some supplies in the local Casino, had a simple salad for supper and caught a cab out to the campsite to meet our pals. Now we are back in the airbnb watching the end of the opening game of the tourney. France v All Blacks. Currently the home side is willing. Only real problem is the commentary is in French and they do get excited.

The rugby world cup has started. Stay tuned…

PS God are we glad we didn’t come in one of our campervans., We would still be on the way and totally knackered. Whilst being height limited for parking the defender is totes luxurious. When it is 35 degrees C out you want to be nice and cool inside.

The AirBnB is great btw. 10th floor apartment with views over the city.

September 7, 2023

burning hot streets of Bordeaux

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:56 am

We trudged the burning hot streets of Bordeaux. All afternoon. Temperature well into the thirties. Stopped for a late lunch at a pavement caff called The Books and Coffee. They are all pavement caffs around here. Mostly tourists. The Bordelaise know when to stay indoors. It was pleasantly cool inside but I only found that out when I went in to settle the bill.

Mad dogs, Welshmen/Irishmen and all that jazz…

Back at the brand new and very excellent Marty Hotel I am pleased to report a fully functioning air conditioning system. All is quiet in the room as THG and I recover from the walk.

Our rugby world cup travelling companions are either still on the road or have parked up for the night. Pool plunges and cold beers beckon. 

We are not in a hurry. When the heat of the day has receded the time for beer will be upon us soon enough. Part of me says the menu for this evening should be some fine red wine. I’m not totally convinced it goes with the heat but we shall see.

A siesta may be appropriate.

September 6, 2023

Hotel Port Haliguen

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:54 am

Sat on our first floor balcony at Hotel Port Haliguen watching the traders arrive and set up for the weekly market. It is a hive of activity. Some of the early birds seem to be almost set up and ready for the first punters. Others are just arriving. Traders are chatting away.

L’Apero have two umbrellas each with a flag touting OLIVES and SAUCISSONS. A baker carries large baskets of bread from his green van to the trailer. BiHan Quiberon Boulanger, Patissier, Chocolatier. Three traders line up to buy breakfast from the serving girl who hasn’t finished setting up yet and isn’t really ready for them. The first has secured his pan au choc and eats it as he walks off.

It is a shame we have breakfast lined up at the hotel. Could have gone to the market 🙂

The Hotel Port Haliguen is a simple two star edifice looking down over the square. One of its attractions was the ease of parking which of course turned out not to be the case on this one day a week when the market rocks up. Managed to find a spot, the last spot, on the road at the back of the hotel. Couldn’t get as close to the wall as the other cars which I found strange until I realised they were all left hand drive! I had to be able to get out of the car. With hindsight I should either have just crawled over the passenger seat or parked facing the other way. It had been a long day!

September 5, 2023

Last morning in Killybegs

Filed under: diary — Trefor Davies @ 10:53 am

Last morning in Killybegs. We move on today. It is always great to come to Donegal and our cottage, situated as it is slap bang in the middle of town, was a perfect base for festivities.

Yesterday we gathered outside the Tara Hotel and were picked up by Terence’s minibus to take us to The Country Inn, Ballinakillew where cousin Gavin and his lovely wife Caroline were there to meet us.

The Country Inn is a classic Irish country pub. Very friendly. I chatted for a while with the former landlord William Walls who very kindly bought me a pint.

On to Lough Eske Castle where Gavin is Executive Chef. Lunch was v tasty and afterwards I was treated to a particularly special glass of Midleton whiskey. Life is short. Drink special whiskeys 🙂We had the usual team photo on the steps of the Castle.

Finished off in McCaffertys in Donegal. Great pub although it has been extended since we were last there and is full of screens so didn’t feel quite as intimate as it might. I guess there were smaller side rooms. In case you didn’t know it Arsenal thrashed Man U three one. Lots of dismayed Man U fans.

Back in Killybegs at around eight forty five and straight to the Fleet Inn to finish off the night. It must be said I only managed a pint there before hitting the hay. That’s all I have to say about yesterday other than the fact that I didn’t lose my hat. Thanks @Dearbhla 🙂

Pretty much packed thirty minutes ahead of schedule.

On board the Irish Ferries WB Yeats bound for Cherbourg. Feels like the beginning of a big adventure which it is. A long sea journey even though it is only a one nighter. Could be any international destination. Port Said. Macao.

If it was the latter we would be in it for the long haul and would definitely need a port side cabin. Our current gaff is on the starboard.

The cabin is comfortable enough. Doesn’t appear to have tea and coffee making facilities though. Squeezing as much cash as they can out of us. Never mind. A few Euros spent on onboard drinks and snacks will seem like small potatoes by the end of this trip.

We are quite looking forward to a quiet night in the cabin after the full on weekend with the O’Rourke Clan in Killybegs. It is twenty to five in the afternoon and we haven’t touched a drop of Guinness. This was a bit of an issue for us in Ireland. Being on holiday we (I) somehow started in the pub quite early. Times ranged between shortly after noon to two fifteen to three twenty. This meant my stamina for staying the course late into the night was severely dinted. Hey… We are grownups and can go to bed whenever we like innit.

I have a couple of books with me to read on the boat: Francis Harvey Collected Poems and Band of Brothers (again). Not often I get time to read without distractions. I could sign up for the wifi though it would be nice to know whether it had decent performance before doing so. It’s 15 Euros for 4 hours! They do offer 20 mins free so might try it out although it feels if I did I would be wasting the opportunity to have some time off away from connectivity.

Meanwhile we’ve been for a drink and a biscuit, checked out the dining options and returned to the room to watch TV. Bit of Rick Stein on Dave. Seen this one before obvs. It must be said that based on our two hours at sea so far I don’t think I could manage a cruise. OK I know that during the cruising day you are mostly on a coach trip in different destinations but there will be some days at sea where all we have to do is participate in the deck quoits tournament. I’m sure I’ve mentioned this before so will stop now. Some of you lot are avid cruise fans.

Shortly after six thirty we went down for dinner. Both had childs portions which were perfectly adequate. Chicken curry with rice (THG) and sausage beans and chips (moi). When I sussed out the options earlier I was a bit worried that the chips looked like they’d been in the serving bowl thingy for a while with the risk of coming out cold. However at six thirty it was rush hour and the chips were fresh. V important 🙂

The sea is dead calm and we did wonder how fast the boat was going. Knots yanow. At that time the captain wandered by and had I not been eating I would have asked him. Could work it out. Twenty one hours at sea but I have no idea of the distance, without tinternet.

Most people in the bar and restaurant area are tucking into beers or bottles of red wine. I’m quite content with not doing this. Back in the room oscillating between reading and updating this diary entry as I think of new things to say.

The idea of being offline for a lengthy period of time is a strange one to get the brain around. We are so used to checking things from time to time (often). Facebook, whatsapp, the weather. You name it. An extended trip offline would need careful planning. Bills need paying etc. How on earth did people do it? 

On the bus to The Country Inn yesterday I booked a hotel room in London for October. Click click tap tap done. Simples. I recall in my early days in product mangements at Marconi Electronic Devices one of the departmental secretaries (Brenda) ringing a London hotel to get a price and book me a room. Either pre www or very early days. Gosh. 

Strand Palace Hotel I remember. During the first gulf war. She got a good price. Thirty quid maybe. Person in front of me at the checkout was paying three times as much. Incredible, especially when you consider today’s London hotel prices.

Found University Challenge on the box. It’s a prog we watch. Together. A little piece of home on the high seas. Now watching Sky News. It isn’t a programme we normally watch. Brings home the reality that we don’t watch much terrestrial telly. It’s all streamed.

Dark out there. No visible lights. No shipping in sight. Empty. 

Slept well. Up now at five forty to see what I could see. Nothing. Nowt. One light in the far distance which must be another ship. I’ve stopped calling them boats.

A ship’s officer, one striper, and a man in a tee shirt walk past me purposefully through the deserted lounge with no sideways glance at just another passenger. Do they not realise it’s mee they are ignoring? No they don’t.

It would appear that all passengers on this ferry have a cabin. If they don’t they are hidden away somewhere. Probably gone off in search of a bench seat on which to stretch out. Away from the glare and the hubbub, of which there is none.

The tables and chairs in this lounge are tidily laid out in an orderly manner. Someone went around straightening them all after the punters had gone to bed. Shipshape. A tidy ship is a well run ship. 

Over the course of ten minutes several individuals have appeared. Wandering. One is sat patiently outside the entrance to Boylan’s Brasserie. Waiting for the first coffee of the day no doubt. All of them are fully dressed. I am fully in my pyjamas.

I had been expecting to see the dawn at this time but I guess we are much further south than Lincoln with the shorter days. The brightly lit lounge might also obscure any lightening of the sky outside.

Man has appeared and is now sat down reading his book. At least I assume it is his book. He might have borrowed it. Unlikely to be from a library though I’d have thought. Wonder what it is. I smile at the idea of going up to him and asking.

First woman of the day has appeared, so to speak. Wearing a green coat. She is looking around to see what action there is. I too am earing a coat. My fleece. This is so that I have a pocket in which to put my wallet and phone, in case I find somewhere to purchayse a cup of tea. Not tried the other end of the deck yet.

The man has packed away his book, taken a swig from his water bottle and slung his blue back over his shoulder. I thought he was going to move on but all he has done is turned around in his seat to survey the rest of the lounge. Nowhere to move on to really. No, wait, he has moved. 

It is definitely getting lighter out there. I’m off out on deck. I was the only one there earlier but it was dark.

Had a great little chat with the Sergeant at Arms who was having a quiet smoke. Polish guy. The ship averages 20 knots. All your questions answered. 24 knots if it is a following wind.

The captain and first mate work two weeks on two weeks off. The rest of the officers have a four week rotation and the Seargeant at Arms himself does six weeks on, three weeks off. The can’t afford to take any more time off. Company flies him home but flights are currently harder to come by due to the rugby world cup.

The sea is very calm now but during July and August it has been quite rough due to the weather system causing the extreme heat down south. Apaz they are expecting the ‘weather’ to return in a week or so. We will be solidly on terra firma.

His dad was from the mountainous region near the border with the Czech Republic. I wonder if I remembered that right.He also mentioned Belarus. I’ll have to check when I get connectivity. Not hugely familiar with that part of the world.

I told him of the RIPE dinner in Krakow that involved a different bottle of vodka with each of seven courses. In reply he said that at Polish weddings there was much singing and consumption of vodka. Different groups of men (married, single etc) would stand up and sing a song and then down a shot. He had recently attended a wedding between a  Polish girl and a Brit. The Brits all had serious vodka inspired hangovers the next day 🙂

I mentioned the lack of sightings of other ships. Apparently they mostly see fishing fleets en route, concentrated on where the fish were at any particular moment in time. As they get sloser to the channel it also gets busier as you might expect.

Quite a productive time on deck. He told me that the cafe was open all night so I am now in there letting a hot cup of tea cool a little to a drinkable temperature. In ten minutes or so I’ll take one down to THG. Cafe floor ten, bedroom floor nine.

Looking out of the windows I keep expecting to see dolphins swiming playfully alongside. Where are they all, c’mon. Visibility not great at this time on the morning. Mists still need buring off. 

Tis going to be a hot one I believe. We are headed south to the Quiberon Peninsula. Port Haliguen. First stopping point on the journey to Toulouse. Doing it in shortish hops. Didn’t see the point in thrashing ourselves.

Quite a few people around at six forty six. Sitting here on my own feels as if I am a solo traveller. People watching.

September 3, 2023

Another grey start to the day in Killybegs

Filed under: diary,travel — Trefor Davies @ 10:51 am

Another grey start to the day in Killybegs. After breakfast yesterday I took a stroll around the harbour to check out the fishing fleet. Many of the boats were registered in Sligo. Impressive bits of kit.

At the end of the quay there were three guys fishing with rods. Big contrast between the rods and the industrial scale fishing out of the boats. Nothing was being caught and later I bumped into one of the fishermen walking through the village. He was relocating to another spot in the hope of better luck.

All is quiet in the cottage. Was a big day yesterday with a contingent of us heading out on a boat trip to Slieve League. Great afternoon out fair play. On return to the harbour the party dispersed with Toby George and I heading to the Harbour Bar for some refreshment. We hadn’t quite realised it was only around three thirty pm. We were meeting the others in the Bay View Hotel at around nine!

Gradually the Davies and Cookson parties converged on the bar and a pre order for fish and chips from the Seafood Shack was compiled. Twelve meals for picking up at seven twenty. The point here I guess is that there were four hours of Guinness consumption before dinner with the prospect of a further spell afterwards in the Bay View. The energy levels after eating were understandably low but we made it out, at least to show our faces.

Notable events during the day included Joe being hustled at pool at the Harbour Bar. Someone played him in the best of three frames and Joe won easily in the first. After that a bet of twenty euros was laid and the other guy proceeded to thrash his unsuspecting victim. Classic hustle. The Harbour Bar was Uncle Patsy’s local apaz.

In the Bay View a band was banging out Irish folk music and they attracted a number of couples to the dance floors for what I can only describe as old time dancing. There is a video somewhere of THG dancing with one of the locals 🙂

The consequence of yesterday’s merriment is a slow start for everyone this morning. Fair enough. We are on holiday. THG however has gone out running. The woman is superhuman. After thirty five years of marriage she never ceases to impress. Problem is it puts the rest of us, well me, to shame. Ah well.

Today is our last in Killybegs for this trip and tomorrow I will point the car towards Dublin and the ferry to France. Plenty happening between now and then though so stay tuned.

Church bells calling the faithful to mass. First session of the day, presumably.

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